It’s fun to open your mailbox and find a surprise!!  Today I recieved a lovely package in the mail from my friend (and kindred spirit) Annette.  In it was a copy of a Marfy coat that she has made.  She wore it at the Philadelphia Pattern Review Weekend, and I loved it! 

I thought it would be fun, and a good excercise as well, to make the coat as a sew-along for myself.  I don’t often chronicle the step by step process of my sewing, but I thought it might be a good idea for this one. If it is easy, then maybe I can convince more of you to try Marfy’s.  If it is difficult- um – then you get to suffer right along with me!!

This is what a Marfy Pattern looks like when it arrives in your mailbox.

No photo.

No description.

No instructions.

Only one size.

So why the heck would anyone want to make one?  Well in my sometimes humble opinion they are very fashion forward.  Check out the website and see for yourself if you don’t believe me.  Count how many of them you absolutely crave…..see what I mean?! 

The pattern I will be using is Marfy 1974.  

It is a hip length swing jacket with an otional hood.  I will be using the size 46, which looks like it is between a  14 and a 16.

When you decide to make up a Marfy pattern, remember to-

• 1.  Print out the photo AND save it online somewhere.
  2.  Look for details that might catch you up- this one for instance has some interesting seaming and welt pockets.  And should it be lined?  How do I attach the hood?
  3.  Try to figure out construction order.
  4.  Double check your sizing.
  5.  Suitable fabrics- It will say that on the site, as long as your pattern is still available!  So save that information too.  Print it out and keep it with the pattern.

 Here  is what this pattern has to say on the Marfy site.   Mt. 3.20 alt. 1.40. – Available in sizes 42, 44, 46, 48.  This jacket has broad kimono sleeves, a shirt collar closed with three buttons, yoke cut at the back and deep, un-ironed pleat, Can also be made with hood. Suggested fabric: casentino cloth or rubberized fabric.
It also states that the markings are for a size 46, so I will be okay there.  I will be using a black raincoating fabric that I have kicking around for this one. Unless Fabricland just happens to have some grey metallic meterage…. 

This is what the darts, notches and interestingly translated pattern indicators look like.

Next time, I’ll show you how I cut it out and marked all the pieces. 

An important Public Service Announcement…

Remember that when you are serging something important- something that can’t be stopped in the middle of- to check your thread or you might end up with…

this….

I need a good night sleep, because a drive to Montreal and a weekend with 50 fabulous women is about to commence.  But I promised a review, and a review will be wrote. writ. written. published. What EVER.

So on to

Butterick 5495  – A Review

Butterick 5495

Spill what you know about the pattern description!  From the envelope -Loose-fitting tops A, B, C, D with front drape gathered into loop, dropped shoulder, seam details and stitched hems. A, B: sleeveless. C, D: short or long kimono type sleeves.  What I think it should say.  Close fitting tops A,B,C,D with front drape gathered and held with a loop of fabric.  A,B: sleeveless with length variations.  C,D 2 sleeve lengths – kimono or dolman styling.

Who should make this top.  I would rate it advanced beginner.  If you are savy about reading patterns, it is a quick and easy pattern.  Don’t make it if you are Apple shaped, but I think that it would suit any cup size.  Don’t quiz me on how to do a FBA on this one.  I don’t know and I don’t care.  Blame my cousin.  She went in for a breast reduction about 10 years ago and didn’t invite me or my sisters to share in her discards!

Fabric?  Well you should know that I made two versions of this.  Let’s call them Version A and Version B (I know, the depths of my wit and IQ are wondrous!)  The fabric for both came from Fabricland.  I waltzed into that store grabbing bolt after bolt.  “A metre of this, a metre of that, a metre- no wait, 1.5 please of that”  You know the way we fabric store mavens throw out amounts like we know what we are talking about.  Until we get home and realize that the pattern takes a mere metre of 160cm wide fabric, and all the knits that were so cheap were 115cm wide.  Live and learn! At least it gives you, the reader, a better idea of where the seaming of the pattern is! 
Version A used two differernt, but coordinating fabrics.  View B may look familiar, especially if you read my friend Kay’s blog .  We have been emailing back and forth so that this weekend, in Montreal, we don’t look like a fashion faux pas! 

What makes this pattern so interesting.  Glad you asked!  It is really just a variation of the old twist top, but with the fullness gathered in, not twisted. It is remarkably like a Knip Mode pattern that Melissa over at FherTrade made.  (I don’t get Knip Mode, but my mom is going to Holland next week and has promised to try to track down a copy.  We DO have Knip Modes from the 50’s and 60’s though.  I should dig those up…)   There has been some discussion that the top is too tight and too paunchy in the abdomen.  I don’t find it too tight,I rather like the way the upper bodice fits especially.  The pattern pieces do cause a moment of wonderment, but it all makes sense quickly.

There is no gaposis  in the front whatsoever. I will admit it is a bit blousonly (is that a word- or did I just muck up the spelling?)  but it makes me want to stand up straight and pull in my gut!  I measured the area that gets gathered up- I believe it was 13 inches that gets reduced to 2 by the fabric loop.

Do you have any caveats about the pattern?  As always, I lengthened it.  I am not too thrilled with the handling of the neckline facing.  It is just turned under. 

 That’s it.  no seam finishing, no interfacing, no nothing. But you know?  It works.  On a fast and dirty one hour top, I’m not complaining!

Thumbs up?  Thumbs down?   Up for sure.  Know your body type, grade up if needed, and you should be okay.  Will I make it again?  Well, I have two already , but I do have a winter white fabric that needs a home.

And the finished product.  Excuse the hair and lack of makeup.  It’s been a long day, starting in the barn this am at 6:30, lunching with my fabulous sisters, visiting my mom and dad, trying to golf in the pouring rain,and packing.

Wait- it's not quite perfect...

There!

Version 2, or "Oh Kay!"

Gathering in the bodice

Shoulder shot- just because!

My car is packed – to the rafters!  I’m off to Montreal tomorrow morning for the First Ever Pattern Review Weekend in Montreal.  We ,the organizing committee have pretty well written a book with our emailing back and forth!  I am excited to see old friends, meet new ones and see if that gorgeous Cirque de Soliel $150/metre solid encrusted fabric is still calling me…..
I will try to write a short post each night, but that depends on how much of the wine that Kay and I are each packing gets consumed!

I just finished making PrincessH a shitload (see the pun there?!) of diapers. 

Back when my babies were really babies, I also used cloth diapers.  They were pretty basic for me, but more advanced than what most people who used cloth were used to.  Instead of flat diapers that needed to be folded into shape, I made flannelette, hourglass shaped ones.  Some needed diaper pins, but by baby number 5, I had graduated to velcro.  The plastic pants were pretty fugly though, weren’t they!

Fast forward to 2010, one almost requires a PHD in diaper making to manouver around …..Terminology- CD – clothdiaper, AIO -all in one, PUL (Poli  Polyurath Polyurethane laminate (there.  I knew I’d get it!), lastin, aplix, pre-folds, contoured….Types a mind boggling assortment of WAHM (work at home mom’s), who all tout their own version of what seems to be the same basic pattern, free patterns, purchased patterns, websites with dimensions to use to draft your own…and Fabrics.  Don’t get me started on fabric!  Wool.  That PUL stuff . Fleece- the good stuff vs the “bad stuff”.  Organic Fleece.  Terry cloth.  Bamboo. Felted wool.  Breathable.  Non-breathable.  All the old teeshirts and sweatshirts you have hanging around. And there’s the entire discussion surrounding  different kinds of elastic, velco versus aplix versus snaps!

Breathing heavy here. Bending over at the waist.  Finger pointing up “just give me a minute here”…

Wow!

No wonder people use disposables!

Kidding aside, there is definitely an entire industry out there!

Mme Kate and I have been doing some investigative work of our own, trying to come up with the “perfect system” for Princess H.

We started with the Jalie Diaper.  We had to start somewhere, and as a loyal Jalie fan, it seemed like a logical starting point. And they have a great set of videos as a teaching tool.  Kudos!

I gathered a pile of PUL, Bamboo fleece, and ZORB (that is an entire post on its own- to come) and sewed. and sewed.  I purchased all that at Wazoodle,  a Canadian online store that specializes in diaper making supplies.  There have been some rumblings on the sewing blog circuit that their customer service is less than desirable.  I found them extremely easy to work with, although I did stress that I needed my order quickly.

We started with the three month size, pocket diapers, with inserts.  The inserts are Zorb covered with a variety of fabrics.  There was a bit of a discussion to be had with my serger, who balked at so many layers.  We compromised!

 The diapers turned out pretty darn good.  I’m not completely happy with the leg openings, as there tends to be a definite leakage problem.  So Kate and I did some thinking and for the next set, we are adding these alterations.
1.  adding an interior gusset with elastic a la disposable diapers.
2.  putting the “opening” in the middle of the diaper instead of the top. Supposedly, the inserts will come out in the laundry that way.  We will see!
3. Using fold over elastic.  (FOE) I have a  lot from an online source – also Canadian!

The kid is pretty well set for the time being though. 

Fabricwise, I also got some PUL ish type fabric- pink with quarter sized dots, off of Etsy, some leftover waterproof fabric from Malden Mills (red) and a few yards of PUL from Joann’s when I was in the States.  Lots of new stuff to try out. 

Here are some photos of the diapers, in construction mode and finished.  Pics of diapers adorning PrincessH’s bum will have to wait- her face is just so darn cute that we forget about diaper photos!

This pattern has been haunting me for a while.  Not in the “BOO” ,  jumping out in the middle of the night scaring the bejezzus out of me, kind of haunting, but rather the niggling, “oh that top looks just like S2998″, loving the neckline, popping into my brain, wanna make it, kind of haunting.  The good kind!  I haven’t seen many reviews of it- in my humble opinion  it is an overlooked little gem!

It was quick and easy, and made up in an hour, including the neckline variation that I introduced.  You have to love a pattern that translates well from conception to worn garment!

So, the pattern, my good woman. Tell me a bit about it?   Simplicity 2998 has two variations. View A and B are a sleeveless longer style top or minidress, with or without pockets.  This version has wide neckline and armhole bands and a slight racerback back.  Views C and D are blouson in two lengths with full gathered sleeves.  (my peeve with the pattern here- on the front cover they show pictures of the 4 views, but they put them in a strange order.  From left to right they are D, B, A, C.  Wouldn’t it have been more logical to put them in alphabetical order?)
The two variations are completely different from each other, giving you,  in essence, in reality actually(!) two tops in one pattern!
I made version B with some variations.  I cut a size 12, and made some allowance for my size 14 hips. *sigh*
 

Why did you buy the pattern?  I actually thought it would make a cute top for my daughters.  Selfish old woman that I am, I decided that it would make a great top for my upcoming cruise…..  I was drawn to the gathers in the front, the U shaped neckline and the bands.

And the fabric choice? A very drapy cotton/lycra print from my local Fabricland.  Cheap, and pretty.  It would look great in a popping citrus colour for the summer too!   The bands were cut from some brown silk jersey that I snagged on my very first trip to Mood a couple of years ago.  Sooo pretty and easy to sew!

Were there any construction malfunctions?  Not a one, unless you include the fact that I accidently cut out two front bands. That was totally my fault and not the patterns.  The pattern clearly told me to cut one.  I refused to listen, which was actually a good thing since it let me experiment with the neckline a bit and compare looks.  I didn’t look much at the instructions, but they look complete and clear.

Did you stray from the pattern at all Connie?  Well duh!  Of course I did.  Let’s see…
1.  I omitted the pockets.  No woman who’s doctor once said to her “Connie, you were made for having babies, you could drop them in a field and then keep on working!”  (Translation- you have good strong wide hips, woman!)  would consider pockets on the widest part of the hip area an asset!  On my slender offspring now, that would be a completely different scenerio.  They LOVE pockets! 
2.  I added about an inch to the tunic length.  Probably wasn’t necessary, but I am 5′10 in bare feet, so I always add length.  Usually more than an inch.
3.  I changed the neckline from flat to twisted.  I have been wanting to do a twisted neckline for a while- like before it becomes passe- and figured now was the time.  I was uncertain as to how twisting would affect the lay and stretch of the silk, so I opted to insert the band flat as opposed to “in the round”.  I attached the front to the back at one shoulder only, and cut the neckline piece a bit longer than necessary, chopping  off the excess after sewing.  I have sewn enough knits to know where I need to stretch the neckband in order for it to lay flat against my body, so I wasn’t worried about matching notches.  I compared the bodice paper pattern piece to the paper neckline piece to figure out that the gathers needed to be two inches between the notches when pulled up.  To twist the band, I marked the fabric every one inch on both long edges of the fabric, then pinned them together, offsetting by one hash mark.  I experimented with a few different spacings, and for this weight of fabric, one inch worked best. 

Other than that, the pattern went together as dictated.  The band on the bottom was quick.  If you make it, ensure that you don’t forget those notches! 

And the finished product?  I really like it.  You are not going to see it on my pasty Canadian winter white body now, but I am hoping that MyMike will be up for a photo shoot on the boat.  As if!  I thought it needed a chunky necklace, but looking at it on the dressform, I think the neckine speaks for itself.  A chunky bracelet perhaps. 
All in all, I am pleased.  You would be too if you made it for yourself.  It lends itself to a myriad of variations, in my opinion.  You could leave off the band, embellish the neckband.  I think you could even add the sleeves of the other view to it.  I think.

And about this cruise ma’am?  Our niece is getting married in two weeks on a cruise.  How could we NOT go?!  All of my sisters, my mom and dad, and some nieces and nephews will be along as well- over 50 of us in total!  I need the break but am feeling guilty about going as well as my play goes to production the following week.  Lines are pretty well perfect and after last nights vocal practice, I am feeling better about the music as well.  The play is Norm Fosters “The Last Resort”, and I have always wanted to do it!  Spoiler…I commit murder (my husband as well as the songs!) and I die too.  Such is life!  I am also the costume “designer” and sewer.  There will be a few sleepless nights before I set sail!

There is a cute dress review on the boards, and I am also going to BORE YOU TO TEARS with my costuming for this upcoming play.  Can anyone say “Carmen Miranda Headpiece”??!!

I had an hour or two To Myself  last Saturday  .  A very important thing that is- time to spend on what one wants to do!  As opposed to today when I promised MyMike that I would fumigate organize  our bedroom and master bath. Why is it seeming to take all day?

We celebrated a dear friends birthday last week and I thought a little gift would be in order.  She and her husband love to travel and are heading off to Africa next month.  Meanies!  In honour of that, I decided that she needs a few toiletry cases. 

I pulled out a little pattern from Thisandthatpatterns that I stole from my mom!   She picked it up at a sewing expo ’cause Mme Micaela loved it.  I find the size a bit too small to be useful for cosmetics, as it is too short for mascara.  Seeing that  mascara is the number one make up item stolen from my bathroom whenever the girls are home, I think that it is ultra important that a makeup case needs to be big enough to hold one!  And hide one!  It is also too short for holding pens/pencils, but it would be good for hanging on to various electronic cords, or jewellery.  I am having a heck of  a time finding the pattern online!   When I did find it, I realized that it does not have finished dimensions for it or any of the other patterns that the company makes. I guess that isn’t much of a problem as the patterns are not available on her website, but I still think it would be a good idea to add a bit of a description to a product line. You need to scroll down the page that the above link sends you to, and the pattern is Abby’s Treasure Box. 

That, 3 zippers,  a dollar store shower curtain for the leakproof lining , a bit of batting and some homedec remnants was all I needed to make 3 various sized bags.

The pattern calls for using various quilting fabrics, and the finished sample was what caught Mic’s eye. It is really cute that way, but you could also  omit the quilted look by using strips of fabric instead of piecing.  The pattern is actually only for the small bag, but I graded up, and omitted the piecing for the 2 larger ones.  All it took was a bit of grade school  high school math to figure out dimensions.  You know they say that using your brain keeps you young! 

Here they are prior to being wrapped.  My friend loved them!  At least the bags will get to Africa! 

And, of course the most important photo of the day…Our first grandchild Hailey Rhea Thom, was born yesterday (Jan 23, 2010) at 7:10 pm weighing in at 7 pounds 15 ounces.  It was so thrilling not knowing if we would be welcoming a girl or boy, and I am so excited to be sewing pink again!  I do not promise not to bore you with her exceptional beauty and intelligence in the next while!  So be prepared!

Keep this under your hat, but…

I am making a swim suit.  We are going on a cruise next month, to see our lovely niece get married.  I want, not need, a new bathing suit so decided to make one!

Problem is…

This what I am knocking off

Using this Kwiksew Pattern 3609

I however, do not look like that VS model.  I look more like this…

I hear you  saying “Oh Connie.  That will work ..

When…

Yeah.

I know.

I’ll keep you posted!

The plan for my “free time” today was to clear the house of Christmas decorations. And I was getting somewhere on the job- honest. Then, I took this ornament off of the tree.

A mitten, made by my talented – she puts me to shame!- sister-in-law, adorned with paper pieced tulips. That brought to mind my friend Rhonda and her husband Tony- they would love those tulips.  THEN, I thought (I know, I know.  My mind works in mysterious ways.  Even I am astounded at the circular route it takes!) Anyways, I thought of a Twitter message  whoops can’t say that- I swore off Twitter didn’t I!   I was reminded of an  email that I recieved ( I get them both ways!)  from Sew,what’s new.com about sewing a wristlet pincushion.    I am on a pincushion craze right now. I also can’t understand why I can never ever, ever find any straight pins in this house.  Do the cats eat them?  Hope not!  That, however,  is another story altogether.

Back to this story.  I decided to meld the two ideas together and came up with this uber cute little thing…

After reading the directions from the website,  and making my own wristcushion as a prototype, I decided that a few alterations to the pattern would make this a “make in 15 minutes” little project.  Assuming of course that you don’t have to draft a paperpieced tulip while you are making supper.  And assuming that you don’t have to gather up all the cute little vintage pillowcase scraps left over from making starting a baby quilt.  And assuming you don’t look at the quilt blocks and decide to sew up just  a few more sashing pieces.  Then screwing up because the last row didn’t need sashing.  Then…

To make a long story short(er), this project actually got done! 

A quick rundown on what I did. 

1.  Cut a  rectangle of fabric- or do what I did and embellish with other fabrics. Mine was 4 inches by 14 inches.  The tutorial that is on the website above suggests 5 by 15.  Do whatever you want!  I won’t be looking over your shoulder!

2.  Fold in half lengthwise and stitch across one end and down the long side. 

3.  Turn and press.  

4.  Find  the center.  Measure out 1.5 inches each way from the centre and mark.  Stitch across ONE of these lines.

5.  Stuff.  I used clipping from Kate’s diapers- not HERS, but you get the idea.  ( and also not done!) Bamboo fleece and absorbant liner stuff.  It was handy and actually in the garbage can, but it looked like it would work!   If you are picky about what you use, feel free to use emery, steel wool, pencil shavings  or whatever is right for you.  Me, I am not that picky!
Stuff it pretty tightly, and pack it in so that you can stitch across the other marked line.

6.Make sure it fits your wrist, and add the velcro.  Best to use your noggin when figuring out where the loop and hook parts go.  Elsewise you will be “frogging it “ for sure!

A close of  the tulip.  Please ignore the unmatched spots.  I was trying to hurry!  There are some colour issues with this photo for sure!

And on my wrist.

No more pins lying in wait for unsuspecting male feet to step on.  Well, in theory anyways!  It will be in the mail to my good friend, as soon as I find her address! 

It’s a good thing that I am taking the tree down.  I found a present that I forgot to give,  hanging on a  branch in a Nash Jeweller’s bag.  Young Miss Leah didn’t make it home from Alberta for Christmas, so I gave her presents when I was out there for her birthday, and sent some in the mail AND gave some to her boyfriend to take back.  But I forgot this one.  A sweet little bracelet made out of a fork.  As an added bonus, I was supporting a local artist.  Apparently these were hot, hot, hot in the London area this season.  So Leah, if I can’t get it to your boy before he returns, get ready to visit your favourite post office!

Time to get back to the Christmas Tree the dismantling of anything remotely Christmas themed!

A random conversation – if commenting back and forth on Facebook can be considered a conversation!-  started me thinking today.  The discussion thread whatever  was concerning school lunches, and the not so new trend towards litterless lunches.   Some schools even have contests to see who can bring the least garbage.  “Come on honey, that chocolate bar rapper has fibre!  Munch away.”

A friend was lamenting the fact that trying to pack all those plastic reusable containers in her childs lunch bag was a challenge.   Another person pointed her to an Etsy site that was marketing fabric lunch “baggies”.  My ears immediately perked up.  Fabric?  Sewing?  Dragons Den  here I come!

A quick search showed me that there are more sustainable lunch containers out there.  But is there really a large enough market for them?  Or are parents ultimately going to go the easier route of those round/square plastic containers? 

Personally I have not given it much thought before now.  For lunch I generally rummage through the fridge wondering why the food fairy hasn’t made a delivery. My offspring are past elementary or highschool age.    I think they are under the impression that I never made them a lunch anyways!  Bad mommy! 

I am always on the lookout for new schemes though.  I think it started when I was about 11 and my dad’s make work project for us for the summer was to hoe milkweeds from the corn fields.  I spent most of the time scheming about how, if we let the milkweed pods mature, I could use the fluff to stuff pillows, and even whole duvet covers… my own little industry!  Don’t laugh now- apparently someone “stole” the idea that my 11 year old brain thought up.  I don’t think they are making a fortune though!

Not only am I digressing now, but I just wasted a half hour spent way too much time researching milkweeds!

Back to the question at hand.  Would people really pay money for fabric/PUL snack sacks?

How I do love you! 

So many times she brings me bills,  but yesterday she brought me a present from Montreal!  As many of you know, I was in Monteal with some sewing friends last week, 2 weeks ago (how time flies!) to do some planning and scouting of stores for a PatternReview Weekend next June.  sigh “I know, it’s a tough job, but we were all up to the task!”

Imagine my delight when I got the mail yesterday, to find a package from my  cher ami  Rhonda from Montreal. She knows that I enjoy pattern design, so sent me the book “Make Your own Dress Patterns” by Adele P. Margolis.  It is going to be a great read I am sure.  What a dear friend she is!  Rhonda and her husband just celebrated their wedding anniversary, so be sure to head over there and congratulate them!

Now Rhonda, you promised a trip to Ontario….Can hardly wait to see you again.

Here is great group of friends I was honoured to be able to spend a day or two with.

My Lord, I sound like a broken record!  Some day I will be blogging about more than wedding sewing!  I really love making fancy dresses though!  In my secret of secret minds, my career involves making Mothers of the Bride/Groom look beautiful!

You may remember Likely you forget the fabric that I chose for the next (and I have been promised that it will be the last for a while!) Mother of the Bride gown.  It is a lovely silk burnout fabric, very sheer, with flowers in shades of  red/green/pink and black .  You will see it in the following pictures, so I won’t show it here.
I got it off of Ebay last year for a scandoulously cheap price.  I was afraid that it was not silk, but a burn test proved that it was indeed silk and not polyester “silky” fabric.  The old buyer beware adage always comes into play with online purchases doesn’t it?  This time I was lucky.

I have decided not to use Vogue 8556.   
 

I mocked up this pattern in some black and white poly and decided it added undesired bulk on my torso (read- I felt fat in it!)  The bodice was drafted too large for my boob size, and the transition between the ruched waist and the bodice didn’t translate well to my kinda pear shaped figure.  Better to leave this one to large chested, tiny waist women!
There were a few aspects that I really liked in this dress too though.  I will be dragging them over to the  Take Three dress. 
1.  the curved “halter” neck piece
2.  the back strap which I find strangely sexy!

I did some research, and found this pattern which, surprisingly, has only been reviewed once on PatternReview.  Vogue 2847 (LindsayT and EricaB – That to me is one of the good things about posting a review on PR.  You can do a search in one place, instead of trying vainly to remember who made a certain outfit, then trying to find it in their blog archives.) Look up digress in the dictionary.  There is a honking big photo of me right beside the definition!

For my rendition, I am taking the skirt portion, and drafting my own bodice for the top.  Ruched bodice, contrast halter neck band, and the back straps from the other Vogue dress.  I thought that neckband, coming down in a V was an original thought, but then I was at the Burda site and saw this dress, which has the same sort of neckline treatment going on.  I drafted my neck band from scratch – scout’s honour!  Huhnh – so much for originality!
Here it is pinned on the dressform.  So far I like what I am doing with it.  It is by no means near completion, but is coming together in a good way.  I have done a lot of ruched work in the past two years, but never for myself.  My next post will show how I did the ruching on this bodice.   
 

Todays Postscript…. 
It was another beautiful day in the neighbourhood today.  We worked on the yard, cutting down some large evergreens that were blocking the view of the house, and did some very overdue trim work on the yard.  My gardens are dreadfully neglected this year!